Best of Chester

10:18am Saturday 8th November 2008

Paul Pearson samples some of the famous inns of the medieval city of Chester.

CHESTER is a place I have always wanted to visit, having heard many good reports, so when the opportunity arose to spend two nights at a hotel a few miles outside the city, I jumped at the chance.

The Best Western Llyndir Hotel is a country house hotel and spa set in the North Wales countryside and proved an ideal base from which to explore the city of Chester.

Arriving late on a Friday night, my wife and I received a warm welcome from the staff, who were never less than friendly, helpful and informative throughout our stay, and enjoyed a pleasant meal and an excellent bottle of wine in the restaurant.

The hotel’s amenities also include an indoor pool, gym, sauna and solarium.

Fortified by a very satisfying traditional Welsh breakfast the next morning, we set out on a two-minute stroll to the top of the lane to catch a bus into Chester.

With a bus arriving every ten minutes, this was a very convenient way to get into town without having to worry about where to park the car in an unfamiliar place. We were also fortunate that our visit coincided with a beautiful early autumn day, which made walking anywhere a real pleasure.

Our first port of call was the cathedral. It cost £4 each to get in, but we felt it was money well spent to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the wonderful medieval building.

Having also wandered through the cloisters, admiring some wonderful stained glass windows, we then treated ourselves to coffee and a scone in the café housed in the monks’ refectory.

When we returned to the sunshine outside, we bought a guide book from the tourist information centre and quickly agreed that the best way to explore the city would be to walk between some of the historic inns featured in the guide.

Our visit coincided with Chester Races and there was a certain excitement in the air as people dressed up for the occasion thronged the pubs and streets before making their way to the course on the outskirts of the city.

After enjoying a pint at the Pied Bull, we headed for the Albion Inn, pausing on one of the historic galleries of the famous Rows to watch a musical street performance below.

This arrangement of shops on two levels is unique to Chester, and helps to create a special experience for shoppers.

The Albion, tucked away under the city walls, is a remarkable place. Decorated in the style of an English pub at the time of the First World War, with William Morris wallpaper, it’s a great place to enjoy a quiet drink and a chat.

But if you’ve had a few too many at the races and are getting a bit raucous, forget it. The landlord has a strict policy of not allowing anyone in if they’ve had too much to drink.

We returned later for an excellent meal of simple British fare, cooked to perfection.

In between, we enjoyed a gentle stroll along the city walls, which afforded a fine view of the crowded racecourse in its spectacular setting between the River Dee and the city.

■ Best Western Llyndir Hotel, Llyndir Lane, Rossett, Chester, Cheshire LL12 0AY.

01244-571648. llyndirhallhotel@ feathers.uk.com